Shop-bought hummus has its place, but it is often cold, bland and padded with water and starch. Made at home it takes about ten minutes, costs a fraction of the price, and you decide how much tahini and lemon goes in. Once you have made it half a dozen times you will stop measuring altogether and start working by taste and texture.
The formula is simple: a 400g tin of chickpeas (about 240g drained), four to six tablespoons of tahini, the juice of a lemon, one small clove of garlic, a good pinch of salt, and ice water to loosen it. Everything else is adjustment. The ice water is the trick most people miss, and it is the difference between a dense paste and something genuinely light and creamy.
Hummus has very few components, so each one shows. Buy the best you are willing to pay for, particularly the tahini and the olive oil.
Drain and rinse the chickpeas, then tip them into a small pan with half a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda and enough water to cover by a couple of centimetres. Simmer gently for eight to ten minutes, until the skins look wrinkled and start to slip off when you press a chickpea between your fingers.
Drain them, then cover with cold water and rub them between your hands. The loosened skins float and can be poured off. This is fiddly, and entirely optional, but it is the single biggest improvement you can make to the texture. Skipping it gives a slightly grainy hummus; doing it gives you something you would happily serve to guests.
Order matters. Start with the tahini, lemon juice, garlic and salt in the processor and blitz for thirty seconds or so. The mixture will thicken and turn pale, almost like a loose mayonnaise. This happens before the chickpeas go in, and it is why tahini-heavy hummus tastes so much better than the thin version.
Add the warm, drained chickpeas and blend for a full three to five minutes, scraping down the sides twice. Yes, that is longer than feels sensible. Then, with the motor running, add ice water a tablespoon at a time. Four to six tablespoons is usual. The cold water stops the blades warming the mixture, which can make it gluey, and it emulsifies the tahini into something fluffy. Stop when it looks like softly whipped cream rather than paste.
Taste now, while it is still slightly warm, and adjust: more lemon for sharpness, more salt than you think, a little more tahini for richness.
Spread the hummus into a shallow bowl and make a swirl with the back of a spoon. Pour over a generous glug of olive oil, then dust with paprika or sumac, scatter chopped parsley, and add toasted pine nuts or a few whole chickpeas. It keeps for four days in the fridge, covered with a thin film of oil and a lid; bring it back to room temperature before serving, loosening with a squeeze of lemon and a splash of water.
If you garden, a few of the ingredients are genuinely worth growing. Garlic is the easiest: plant cloves pointed end up, about 10cm apart, in a sunny bed or a large pot in October or November, and lift them in July when the leaves yellow. A Meyer lemon in a 30–40 litre pot of John Innes No. 3 will crop on a sheltered, south-facing patio, moving indoors from November to March and fed with tomato feed through summer. Chickpeas are a novelty in the UK, sown under cover in May in the sunniest spot you have; the season is short, so pick the pods young and green, or grow them simply as a nitrogen-fixing crop. And keep parsley, coriander and mint on the go — coriander bolts in heat, so sow little and often, and always grow mint in its own pot.
Evidence suggests monounsaturated fats and polyphenols in olive oil may support heart health when used in balanced meals.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
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