Growing Olive Trees in Pots on a UK Patio

By Weekend in Puglia: Food and Olive Groves
Comments 35
3 Sep 2026

Growing Olive Trees in Pots on a UK Patio

A Mediterranean Tree That Tolerates Britain

Few plants carry the promise of a sun-drenched terrace as convincingly as an olive. The good news for UK gardeners is that Olea europaea is far tougher than its origins suggest. Mature trees cope with short spells of around minus 10°C, and a hardy cultivar in a pot will happily spend the whole year outdoors on a sheltered patio across most of the country. The real danger is not the cold itself, but cold combined with wet. Planted in the ground, British winters waterlog the roots and rot takes hold; in a container, you control the drainage, which is precisely why pot growing suits olives so well here.

Choose a Hardy Cultivar, Not a Tender Import

Varieties differ enormously in hardiness, and the label on the pot rarely tells you the whole story. Look for named cultivars with a proven record in northern Europe. Arbequina is compact, self-fertile and reliable, making it a fine choice for a small patio. Leccino and Frantoio are hardier still and crop well, while Picual tolerates cold and produces generously where summers are warm enough.

Just as important is where the tree was raised. A plant that has spent its life in a heated continental polytunnel will sulk and drop leaves the moment it meets a British November. Buy from a nursery that overwinters its stock outdoors, and ask how long the plant has been acclimatised. A slightly smaller, UK-grown tree is worth far more than a taller, softer import.

Drainage Comes Before Everything Else

Aim for a straight-sided pot of at least 40 to 50 litres, with a wide base for stability and generous drainage holes. Terracotta or frost-proof stoneware is ideal because the weight keeps the tree upright in wind. Raise the pot on feet or bricks so water can escape freely rather than pooling beneath it.

For compost, mix roughly three parts John Innes No. 3 with one part horticultural grit. This gives the open, free-draining structure olive roots demand. A handful of slow-release fertiliser at planting time is useful, but it will not compensate for a soggy mix.

Never use a moisture-retaining multipurpose compost, however convenient it seems.
Check that drainage holes are clear and large enough to matter.
Skip the traditional layer of crocks in the base, which can create a perched water table and make matters worse.
Top-dress each spring with a little grit to stop the surface panning over.

Sun, Water and a Sensible Summer Feed

Position the pot in the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have, ideally against a south- or west-facing wall where it will catch six hours or more of direct light. Olives are wind-tolerant once established, but a young tree benefits from being out of the worst of the prevailing gusts.

Water thoroughly until it runs from the base, then wait until the top few centimetres of compost are dry before repeating. In a hot July that may mean daily; in a cool, damp spell, once a week or less. Never leave the pot standing in a saucer of water.

Feed from April to August with a balanced liquid feed, switching to a high-potash tomato feed from June to encourage flowering and fruit. Stop feeding by late August so that new growth hardens off before the cold arrives.

Getting Them Through Winter

The goal is to keep the roots cold but dry, and never frozen solid for weeks on end. Move the pot to its most sheltered position, tight against a house wall and out of the prevailing wind, and insulate the container itself with bubble wrap, hessian or a purpose-made jacket.

Cover the surface of the compost with a slate, a piece of bark or a disc of plastic to shed winter rain.
Water very sparingly, only during mild spells, and only if the foliage begins to look drawn.
Drape fleece over the canopy during hard frosts, then remove it when conditions soften.
Resist the urge to bring the tree indoors into warmth, which will trigger leaf drop and weak growth.

Pruning, Repotting and the Long Game

Prune in late spring or early summer, once frost risk has passed. Open up the centre of the tree so light and air can move through it, and remove any crossing or damaged shoots. Olives respond well to a light trim and will bush out attractively.

Repot every two to three years in early spring, moving up just one pot size, or root-prune gently and refresh the compost if you want to keep the tree in the same container. Olives flower and fruit better when slightly root-restricted, so do not be in a hurry to give them more room than they need.

Fruit is a bonus rather than a certainty in the UK, since olives need a long, hot season to ripen fully. Green olives can still be brined if you fancy the experiment, but most growers treasure the silver foliage and sculptural shape as the real reward. Looked after this way, a potted olive will settle into a patio for twenty years or more, growing more character with every season.

Gardening

How to Store Olive Oil to Preserve Flavour

Blend chickpeas, tahini, lemon and garlic until smooth, then adjust with ice water for a light, creamy texture.

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5 Comments

Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
- John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
  
  I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
  Reply
  - Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
    
    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
    Reply
Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply

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