A proper Mediterranean way of eating is not a diet you go on and off. It is a set of habits: plenty of vegetables, plenty of pulses, fish more often than red meat, olive oil instead of butter and cream, and meals eaten slowly, usually with other people. The good news for anyone cooking in a British kitchen in February is that almost none of it depends on sunshine.
If you change one thing, make it this. Buy two oils and keep them separate. An everyday extra virgin olive oil for roasting, sweating onions and dressing salads, and a smaller, more peppery bottle for finishing — drizzling over soup, fish, beans or bread. You do not need a special oil for cooking with; the idea that extra virgin cannot take heat is out of date. It will happily roast a tray of vegetables at 200°C.
Buy in smaller quantities than you think you need. A 500ml bottle used within three months will taste far better than a three-litre tin that sits half-empty for a year. Keep it in a dark cupboard, away from the hob and the windowsill, because light and warmth make it taste flat and slightly waxy. Once opened, it is a fresh product, not a store-cupboard fossil.
The most useful change is arithmetic rather than recipe-writing. If your usual Bolognese uses 500g of mince, use 250g and add a tin of green lentils, a grated carrot and a chopped courgette. Nobody notices the missing meat; everybody notices the deeper flavour. The same trick works in shepherd's pie, cottage pie, chilli and a sausage casserole.
Keep a shelf of conveniences so this is easy on a wet Wednesday:
Then a midweek supper looks after itself: soften onion and garlic in olive oil, add a tin of tomatoes and a drained tin of chickpeas, simmer for twenty minutes, finish with lemon zest and a handful of parsley.
Pulses are the quiet backbone of this way of eating — cheap, filling and endlessly forgiving. Rinse tinned beans well before using them, and season them more generously than you would expect; they soak up salt and acid like a sponge.
Two quick ideas worth adding to your rotation. Butter bean mash: warm a drained tin with a clove of garlic and a few tablespoons of olive oil, crush roughly with a fork, and add lemon juice. It sits happily next to roast chicken or a grilled chop. Lentil soup: onion, carrot, celery, a mug of red lentils, a tin of tomatoes and a litre of stock, simmered for half an hour. It freezes in portions and costs very little. If you have a slow cooker, dried chickpeas soaked overnight and cooked for eight hours taste far better than tinned and cost pennies.
You do not need a fishmonger's slab. Tinned sardines, mackerel and tuna, bags of frozen prawns and frozen white fillets do the job beautifully. Sardines on hot toast with lemon, chilli and parsley is a ten-minute lunch that would cost three times as much in a restaurant.
For something more substantial, lay frozen mackerel or cod fillets in a dish with sliced potatoes, olive oil, oregano, lemon and a splash of water, then bake covered for 40 minutes and uncovered for the last 10. Look for sustainability labels when you buy, and treat tinned fish as a store-cupboard staple rather than a fallback.
Rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage, bay and mint are tough, tolerate rain and dislike being fussed over. The main killer is bad drainage, so use terracotta pots with plenty of grit in the compost and never let them sit in a saucer of water. A south-facing windowsill, doorstep or balcony is plenty.
For edibles, choose varieties that suit a short season. A single courgette plant in a large pot will crop for weeks. Bush tomatoes do well in growbags against a sunny wall. Rocket and basil are best sown little and often — a small pinch every fortnight gives you a steady supply of cut-and-come-again leaves instead of one glut.
The last principle is the one most often skipped. Put the food in the middle of the table, add a jug of water and a bowl of olives or a tomato salad, and let everyone help themselves. Even a plain midweek tea becomes a shared meal this way.
Keep a tin of chickpeas, some good bread, a few tomatoes and a lemon in the house and you can assemble a table of small dishes in fifteen minutes. Sit down for twenty minutes rather than eating at your desk. Warm weather cooking is not really about the weather — it is about slowing down enough to taste what you have made.
Choose a hardy variety, use free-draining compost and protect roots from winter wet to keep potted olives thriving outdoors.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
Blend chickpeas, tahini, lemon and garlic until smooth, then adjust with ice water for a light, creamy texture.
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